Adventures In Magical Morocco

My 23 Days Traveling In Morocco

Day 1.

On a warm summers evening on July 2nd, 2019 I arrived at Agadir Airport with great excitement. I proceeded to join the que for passport control but when I got to the counter I was asked to go and fill in an arrivals form and come back. It took longer than I expected to pass through the Passport Control but, nevertheless, I got through eventually after about half an hour. There didn’t seem to be that many people waiting in the que, and there were a few desks open but they appeared to be spending a long time checking each individual. So if you ever arrive at Agadir airport be prepared to wait a while and be sure to fill in your arrival and departure cards.

I changed up some money to Moroccan Dirham at the Money Exchange counter and as I’m British I didn’t need a Visa, so that bit was quick. Then made my way out to my Pre-arranged private transfer to my Air bnb 30 minutes away.

Agadir Airport.

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My First Moroccan Breakfast

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Agadir Beach

Day 2

Breakfast wasn’t included in my stay and as I was heading out to the beach the following morning I stopped at a nearby cafe for omelete and mint tea. Luckily, one local eating at the same establishment overheard how much the Cafe owner asked me for the breakfast and told me I should pay half of what he asked. I thanked him and left the money on the table and left. After breakfast I asked some locals the way to the beach. It was quite a long walk though I enjoyed looking around on the way.

I was so surprised at how long, wide and clean the beach looked. It wasn’t overloaded with people as I had expected but only a few. I guess because it was only about 10.00am in the morning and Moroccans don’t need to rush out to the beach so early when the sun is shining like the Brits do as they know it will still be hot and shining 2 hours later and more!! I walked along the beach promenade taking note of the cafes and restaurants that lined the route until I came to a place where you could see Arabic writing on the land of the hill ahead.

If you are walking along Agadir Promenade at night you’ll see the Arabic letters, which are lit up at night, saying “God, Country, King” engraved on the hill. This is where the Kasbah stands. The Kasbah is also known as Agadir Oufella, and is one of the most popular places for both tourists and locals. The city of Agadir is often overlooked as a destination in Morocco, but it is definitely worth a visit. It has a more modern, resort town sort of feel and is a great place to come to relax and spend time in the sun if that’s what you’ve come for.

Ride A Camel on Agadir Beach

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People Playing Volley Ball On Agadir Beach

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The Busiest Area Of The Beach

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Promenade

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Wonderful View Of The Hill

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Soft And Golden Sandy Beach

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You Can Find A Few Cafe's And Restaurants Along The Promenade

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You Can Find A Few Cafe's And Restaurants Along The Promenade

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Agadir High Wall and also known as Agadir Oufella

I wanted to take the tourist bus up to the top High Wall and look at Agadir from a panoramic view. I asked a young couple to direct me to the place where I can take the bus. It wasn’t far, but when I got there I had to wait around 15 minutes for the bus to come. The sun was beating down and there was no shade, so I was grateful for my sun hat as always. I applied plenty of suncream to my legs, arms and feet as although there was a breeze, it can be worse for people who get sunburnt easily like me.

Once on the bus I tried to take videos and photos of the view along the winding bumpy road on it’s progression to the top. At the top there was a car/bus park, which also had some camels there too for rides. I had a return bus ticket so I had to keep a watch out for when the bus returned to pick me and others up to go back down. The view from the top was glorious! It was amazing!

The fine, white sand that runs along Agadir’s shoreline makes it Morocco’s most popular resort, and I’ll definitely be returning for more. For many visitors, a holiday here really is all about the beach. But if you want to mix up the sunbathing with some sightseeing, Agadir is a great base for excursions and day trips into south Morocco. The picture-postcard fishing village of Essaouira is easily reached from here as are the inland mountain villages, so if you’ve had enough of the sun and sea, you’ll find a host of satisfying things to do that can tempt you away from lazing in the sun!

Agadir really is all about the beach. This is Morocco’s prime resort, and I’m told, holidaymakers from across Europe flock here throughout the year to top up their tans, particularly during winter when there are still blue skies and sunshine aplenty here. So, maybe this is a great place for me to come next winter.

A little info about the Kasbah.

The Colossal walls of the Kasbah are Agadir’s only proper historic attraction. The ramparts are the sole survivor of what was once Agadir’s fortified town, built to defend this sea port against attack. The Kasbah dates from the mid-16th century and once housed a bustling population within its walls.

The walls themselves and the gateway are well-preserved, and their hillside position provides excellent panoramic views across Agadir and the Atlantic coastline below. Come in late afternoon for the best photography conditions.

Agadir Oufella

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Agadir from the High Wall

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Car & Bus Park

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A Short Bumpy Bus Ride Up To Agadir Oufella

A Bumpy Ride Up To Agadir OUfella

Enjoying The View On A Short Bus Ride Up To Agadir Oufella

The Panoramic View From Agadir Oufella (High Wall)

Here’s some information on a few more things you can do while in Agadir.

Agadir City Center

Agadir has a few interesting monuments that make a nice diversion from sunbathing. The Grand Mosque is a modernist-style structure and very unique among Morocco’s mosques.

If you enjoy visiting museums, the Amazigh Museum (Passage Ait Souss) displays some of Bert Flint’s ethnographic collection, in conjunction with Marrakesh’s Tiskiwin Museum, and is a good introduction to the culture and artistry of Morocco’s Amazigh (Berber) cultures.

The Agadir Memorial Museum (Avenue President Kennedy) was erected as a memorial to Agadir’s tragic 1960 earthquake, which leveled the town, and holds an interesting collection of black and white photographs of Agadir in the early 20th century.

Crocoparc

I didn’t know about this crocodile park until I was about to leave Agadir, so I’d very much like to see it on my return. I think it is a great opportunity for an educational family day out. Here’s some info below about the Park.

This recently opened wildlife reserve took 2 years to complete, is located 14 kilometers east of Agadir and is home to Nile Crocodiles, which up to the early 20th century were endemic in Morocco but have since been wiped out by hunting in the wild.

Here, in this park dedicated to safeguarding the crocodiles, you can see and learn about these much-feared beasts up close, in an environment that has been carefully created to mimic their natural habitat.

The park’s gardens host a wide and varied range of flora, both local to the Agadir region and exotics, and staff (who give tours of the site) are highly knowledgeable about both the crocodiles and the plants.

Address: Highway RN8, PK 16 – BP 246 – 80046 Drarga Agadir
Tel. +212 (0) 5 28 29 79 31
Official site: www.crocoparc.com

There are many Excursions and Tours you can take in and from Agadir. Here are a few popular ones you can contact me for about prices etc.

Full-Day Safari Small Desert With Lunch

7-8 hours starting from Agadir Beach after spending time on the beach and the seafront Promenade, then stopping at magnificent Paradise Valley, then passing many beautiful places, returning to Agadir.

Hot Air Balloon Excursion in Agadir

Agadir, Souss-Massa-Draa Region

Duration: 5 hours
Maximum Number Of Travelers: 9

Agadir Sunrise Balloon offers you the most authentic hot air ballooning experience in front of the High Atlas Mountains and over amazing views. The different colours of diversified landscape will leave you breathless. Not to be missed!

Dune Buggy Safari

Agadir, Souss-Massa-Draa Region – Morocco

Duration: 3 hours 30 minutes
Maximum Number Of Travelers: 9

The buggy safari: departs at 8:30 am or 2:00 pm: you explore the surrounding rural areas Agadir fun and exciting way with the help of a fun machine that allows you to discover the thrill of driving a buggy through Berber rural areas and the pre-Saharan terrain and complete this experience with a delicious breakfast in Berber style,

2 Hours Buggy Ride in Agadir

Agadir, Souss-Massa-Draa Region – Morocco  
Duration: 2 hours
Maximum Number Of Travelers: 9

Your adventure will begin with hotel pick-up, followed by driving South of Agadir to the Berber village, to meet your guide. After a brief introduction on the off-road buggy or quad driving techniques, and a practical advice session and handing over glasses and helmets, you will be ready to jump on your buggy or quad and start your adventure.

We start by driving across the Berber villages and farmlands, as well as driving through argan and fig forests. You may even have a chance to meet nomadic people while driving through the sunny sand dunes.

On the return drive to our starting point, we will have a stop for a homemade Berber style breakfast, where you can enjoy mint tea with Argan oil and Amlou (Moroccan dip peanut butter), as well as honey with homemade bread. Once you’ve recharged your batteries, we are going to continue to point of departure to meet your driver, who will drive you back to your Hotel.

There are a choice of 2 Half-Day Agadir Tours

Explore Agadir City & Souk (4 hours)

Explore Agadir (3 hours)

Agadir Berber Night

Agadir, Souss-Massa-Draa Region 
Duration: 4 hours
Maximum Number Of Travelers: 9

Enjoy an unforgettable evening on the outskirts of Agadir with a delicious Moroccan meal !

Not far away an Agadir berber night show awaits you. Take a seat in the decorated tents and be enchanted by snake charmers and the hypnotic moves of the colourful belly dancers. Watch lively Gnawas and admire the fierce fire eaters. Next, indulge in a five-course Moroccan banquet.

Sunset Camel Ride
Agadir, Souss-Massa-Draa Region
Duration: 2 hours
Maximum Number Of Travelers: 9

You will be picked up at the front desk of your hotel by the pickup guide. The ride from the hotel to the ranch is ten minutes.

Arrival at the ranch:

Once at the ranch, the camel guide will introduce you to your dromedary that is domestic and friendly and will give you a brief briefing on the progress of the hike. Once on the back of a camel, you will cross the village of Aghroud Bensergao and a eucalyptus forest and when you reach the mouth of the river Souss, you will take a break to take some pictures and if you have a chance – in function of the high or low tide of the mouth – you will find migratory birds especially flamingos.

Upon your return to the ranch, mint tea and Moroccan cakes will be presented to you.

FANTASIA BERBER NIGHT SHOW and DINNER
Agadir, Souss-Massa-Draa Region – Morocco
Duration: 5 hours
Maximum Number Of Travelers: 9
Experience a slice of true Morocco, join us for an evening of Traditional Berber food & entertainment. You will be greeted by Moroccan dancers then escorted to your beautiful Caidal Tent, where you will experience true Moroccan dining with delights such as Harira Soup, dates, Traditional Moroccan Tagine, Couscous with meat, 7 different vegetables, Moroccan pastries served with Moroccan Mint Tea.
During your meal, you will be entertained by the exceptional Gnaoua Acrobats, snake charmers, fire eaters, Belly Dancers & Berber dancers. Enjoy our Musicians who have traveled from all different areas of Morocco to share with you their individual styles & history of Berber Music. Finally, we welcome you into our stadium where you will experience our FANTASIA SHOW.

You can contact me for further information regarding how to Book these Excursions/Tours or further information.

There are also day trips to other places such as Marrakech, Paradise Valley and Essaouira from Agadir.

AGADIR MARINA
I loved looking around and took many photos of Agadir Marina. The apartments looked rather smart. You could say it’s the city’s most modern attraction and is like a pleasure port between the beach and commercial port. As well as mooring, the complex of white neo-kasbahs has holiday apartments, cafes, restaurants and boat trips for groups including a faux pirate ship called the Jack Sparrow.
I noticed a board displaying times and prices for day trips. “Embark on a 2-hour cruise on the Jack Sparrow. Set sail on a pirate ship into the Atlantic and along Agadir’s coastline. Relax with fun and games for the kids and cold drinks for the parents.” Could be fun for the kids I guess!

Take A Tour on 'Jack Sparrow's' Ship!

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Embark on a 2-hour cruise on the Jack Sparrow. Set sail on a pirate ship into the Atlantic and along Agadir's coastline.

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A Few Boats and Apartments

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The View On The Other Side

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A Closer View

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The Sidewalk Area of the Apartments

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White Washed Walled Apartments Surround The Marina

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After the day’s sight seeing I was tired, thirsty and hungry and my feet were rather sore. I asked a woman close by for a recommendation of fish restaurant. She directed me around 500 meters away to a busy area with much traffic, horn hooting and people waving their arms in the air as it was rush hour and of course dinner time.

Sure enough, when I got closer there were a few local restaurant staff in the streets looking for hungry passers by to persuade and direct to their establishment. I was happy to be accompanied to a table and was shown the menu immediately. There was a lot of choice and various prices. I was so hungry I chose quickly but didn’t really know what I would get. Once it arrived I was pleasantly surprised and enjoyed every mouthful!

No Name Fish Restaurant No. 10

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Starting to get busy

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Fresh Fish Feast at No. 10 Lol!

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A Feast Fit For A Few!

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Day 3

The following morning I took a taxi to the Bus Station where I bought a CTM bus ticket to Marrakech. It was 110 MD plus 10 MD for my luggage. I ate breakfast of omelette and mint tea while I waited half an hour for the bus to arrive. The toilets in the bus station weren’t particularly pleasant but it was a toilet at least with a small fee of 1DH.

The 4 hour journey was fairly quiet and smooth. I didn’t want to sleep as the scenery looked so nice and I wanted to take videos if possible. The photos I took from the window unfortunately had too much reflection so the videos are better.

A short clip from my journey to Marrakech from Agadir by CTM bus.

Traveling By CTM Bus From Agadir To Marrakech

Landscape of sandy hills for the majority of the journey to Marrakech.

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Open sandy planes and hills line the landscape on the way to Marrakech.

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I'll definitely use CTM bus again. Comfy seats and pleasant view.

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MARRAKECH

On arrival in Marrakech, time around 15:30, my next task was to find out how to get to my Riad. I asked a worker at the bus station and showed him the address of the Riad. He directed me, left, right, forward etc. until I reach an Orange coloured Government Building.

Only 5 minutes he said! But it was more like 15 minutes. My feet were starting to hurt by the time I reached the building. Nevertheless, I got there and took a Taxi. The driver spoke English with me, and I had to share it with 3 others. I asked how much it will be and he said 15DH. He dropped two people off, then picked up another and it was quite a while until he stopped and said “Here Lady, finish.” I got out and he asked for 25DH. I asked why but I didn’t understand his reply as now he didn’t seem to know English and he rambled on in Arabic. So, seeing as he wouldn’t let me take my luggage until I gave him 25DH I gave it to him and said shukran.

Now my next task was to find out how to get from the square to Riad Dar Thalge. It was around 7 minutes walk through the narrow streets I was told, by 2 young men sitting at a nearby cafe drinking mint tea who were happy to show me the way and helped me with my luggage. On arrival I gave them some coins for their help and was welcomed in by one of the Hotel staff, who introduced himself as Yassine.

After filling in the guest arrival form and checking in Yassine showed me to my room. It looked beautiful. Everything was crispy clean and mainly white. The pillows, walls, ceilings, doors, windows and window shutters and everywhere in the corridoors and stairways was painted white.

Before I took a shower and relaxed I took a few photos of the room before I made it untidy.

My Room in the Riad

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Bedside Lamp & Widow

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Beautifully Decorated Secure Room Window

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Corridoors & Stairways

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Corridoor From My Room

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Rooftop Seating Area For Meals Or Drinks

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Rooftop Terrace

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After showering and resting I went out to look for somewhere to eat. I thought I would take a walk to the Medina and eat there then browse the stalls. Yassine said it might be hard to find with all the narrow streets and would take around 15 minutes but I could ask some people to help show me the way.

He warned me strongly that I must not hold my phone while walking there nor while I was there. Neither should I wear my bakpack on my back but I should wear it from the front while in Marrakech (especially the Medina and narrow streets where locals wizz past on their motor bikes and grab bags and phones from careless tourists). How was I gonna take photos and videos then? I did, but was very vigilant and kept returning my phone to my bag, which I kept at the front of me.

Sure enough, it was a little difficult but I got there after 25 minutes because so many people wanted to talk to me on the way and I also wanted to look in some shops too. I looked around the medina for a good place to eat, though many looked the same and I was warned that some would raise the price when a foreigner comes along. Then a friendly restaurant waiter asked me what I wanted to eat and the price I was looking to pay. I told him I wanted a meat tagine and fanta. I’d seen some priced at 45MD and 40MD but I said I wanted to pay 35MD so that’s what I paid!

The meal was very nice but afterwards, unfortunately the friendly waiter wanted to accompany me all around the Medina to ‘make sure ı was OK’ and then he insisted he could help me get back to my Riad. Seeing as I wasn’t sure now of which exit to leave from the Medina I accepted his kind offer to help me. Once back at the Riad he rang the bell and Yassine opened the door, I walked in and thanked the guy to which he said “good night madam, I wait you tomorrow for your meal”

 

My First Meal At Marrakech Medina

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Marrakech Medina

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Small Meat Tagine & Fanta

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The Square Close to My Riad

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Locals Go About Their Day

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The Door To A Home At The End Of This Passage

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The Door To A Hotel Riad At The End Of This Passage

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Many Narrow Streets Look Very Similar So It's Very Easy To Get Lost Here

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Children Can Be Seen Playing In The Narrow Passage Ways

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A Busy Day At The Square Near My Riad

The Main Street That Takes You To The Medina From My Riad. From Morning Till Late Night Fast Motor Bikes And Taxis Can Be Seen Here

Day 4

The following morning I enjoyed my breakfast from the rooftop of the Riad. I sat at a table where there were some plates and cutlery and immediately one female staff  brought out my breakfast bit by bit. There was so much laid out (all of which was carbohydrate and sugar, Yikes!!) and I was surprised to see not only fresh orange juice, but mint tea and coffee too! As I was hungry, and it all looked so nice, slowly I got through it all. My what a breakfast and was included in the booking!

After my long breakfast I thought I’d go for a walk to the Medina again. The hotel staff said there wouldn’t be much there during the day but I wanted to look around and see what else was nearby to the Medina. I also needed to find an ATM to draw some cash out. Yassine reminded me to be careful with my bag and camera.

However, as I entered the first passage way that leads to the Medina, I was approached by a local who asked if I’d been to the Berber Market. I said I hadn’t as I’d just arrived and wanted to look for sandals on the way to the Medina. He told me he can take me to the Berber Market where they make all the leather goods like hand bags, coats, poofs, slippers, sandals etc. and said they’ll be going back to the desert in a few days so I should go soon and get a good price. He said it would be cheaper to go there rather than the shops near the Medina. As I didn’t know if he was telling the truth or not I thought I’d go and have a look as he said it wasn’t too far.

Another man (his friend) started coming with us but he was riding a bicycle.  He started talking about all the shops I can look in . The first man left and said his friend will take me there. After a few minutes the man on the bicycle stopped by some gates and a man came towards us. He said ‘Hi, I am Rachid, welcome to the Tannery’ and he gave me some green leaves of fresh mint. At first I didn’t know what the leaves were for but, I soon realised when the man beckoned me to follow him. There was a pungent, penetrating stench of urine, rotting flesh and stagnant water. It is the normal smell of any Tannery, so I very quickly shoved the mint leaves up my nose.

I thought I could get some good photos while I was here and followed him while he explained the process. He went quite fast so I had to rush to keep up. He went to two other yards, each with the leather at a different stage then we had finished. Rachid then called another man to take me to the shop for sandals.

Breakfast On The Riad Rooftop

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Delicious Breakfast

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The Tannery

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Very Smelly Here! Yuk!

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Very Smelly Here! Yuk!

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You Will Need Leaves Of Mint Stuffed In Your Nose While You Walk Around Here

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Fresh Out Of The Soaking Sink

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The Drying Stage

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The Drying Yard

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Drying In The Sun

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Alleyway Leading To The Berber Leather Goods Shop

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Entrance To The Berber Leather Goods Market

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Inside The Leather Goods Market

The man, who’s name was Hamza, brought me to the shop said he’d be waiting for me when I came out. I was shown round the whole store and of course the owner was hoping to sell me something big and expensive. He asked me some questions, you know, the usual ones, “where are you from?” “how long are you staying?” “where are you staying?” type questions, I politely replied and mentioned I was a travel blogger, then I asked if it was ok to take photos to put on my Blog. His eyes lit up and he said “of course madam, please take your time.” Then after taking the photos he asked one of his staff to show me some carpets. I had no desire to buy one carpet or any of the large items he was trying to persuade me with, lovely though they were. So, I said I didn’t come for carpets I came for sandals. Immediately the smile went from his face and he turned and walked away.

I was then shown a small corner with a large basket full of leather sandals. I tried a few on but either the sizes weren’t a good fit or  they were uncomfortable. They wanted around 400-500 MD for a pair of sandals. I could see they were getting frustrated and expected me to buy something. Eventually I said “No thank you, they’re not what I want.” So, I left with them looking very unhappy.

Outside, Hamza asked me what I bought and I told him the sandals were not a good fit. So he said to follow him to the next shop. Again, I was greeted politely and I told them I only want to look at sandals. I was shown a corner with many sandals to try. I was asked my size and all they found they gave me to try. Again, unfortunately either I didn’t like them or they were uncomfortable. The price was higher than the first shop. I mentioned the price seemed high and they said they would be higher in the shops near the Medina. Anyway I left without buying and again the shop keepers were not happy bunnies! Lol

 

Leather Goods At The Berber Market

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Colourful Poufs, Slippers, Bags And More

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The Sofa Where You'll Sit For Their Carpet Show

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Fancy Chests & A Fancy Ceramic Tagine

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Colourful Poufs

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A Photo Showing The Pots Of Colourful Dye For Dyeing The Leather

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After leaving the 2nd leather shop I was shown around a health and spices shop which also had the colour dyes for the leather. I explained that I wouldn’t be buying anything but I’d like to take photos for my Blog. The shop owner was happy to inform me about the spices and health products and gave me a demonstration of how they extract the Argan oil with the small manual machine they had in the shop.

After I had finished in there, Hamza was still waiting outside and wanted to show me more shops but I had had enough. I said I’ll go now and he said he would show me the way back. So, I followed him as I didn’t know how to get back to the Square. He took me as far as the Tannery and pointed for me to go forward and take the route on the left. So, I said goodbye and thanked him for his help and started to walk away. He shouted ‘Hey!’ I turned and looked back at him. He had his hand held out and said ‘Money, what about paying me for helping you?’

I was shocked and wasn’t expecting that. He seemed angry and walked towards me with his hand still open. I told him that I was told I wouldn’t have to give money and that he should have agreed a price with me before he showed me around. He continued to shout at me and I was, by then, feeling quite scared. I thought he might attack me so I quickly looked in my bag for some change and shoved it in his hand and turned and walked away fast. He looked at the money and shouted I need 400! I think I gave him around 40 MD. After all, at the beginning I wasn’t actively looking for a Guide or a Guided Tour of the Tannery, I just wanted to buy some Sandals! Now, feeling shaken, I hurried back to the square and went back to the Riad for a coffee and to rest.

Later, I realised I still hadn’t found an ATM to draw money out so I asked Yassine where I could find an ATM. He said I would find one not too far away down the main road or I could find around the edge of the Medina. So, off I went again to the Medina. I was by now very familliar with the route and people were beginning to wave and talk to me as I was walking to the Medina twice a day since I arrived. I couldn’t see the ATM’s anywhere so I asked. Across the road there was a big Bank with ATM. I noticed the Bank’s symbol looked familiar and to my surprise, I realised it was the same symbol as my Turkish Bank except with a different name, a Moroccan Branch! I was excited! I wondered if I could use my Debit Card in the ATM instead of my credit card. I tried it and it worked! I could draw out money without being charged a fee! Now, after my bad start to the day I was feeling much happier knowing that I could find branches all around Morocco that I could use my debit card without charges.

 

Health and Spices Store

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Health and Spices Store

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Argan Oil Manual Extraction Machine

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Health and Spices Store

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Rows of Spices In The Health and Spices Store

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Rows of Spices & Coloured Dye For The Leather

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Me In The Health and Spices Store

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A short clip from my visit to the Tannery and Spice Shop

Breakfast at my Riad before a visit to the Tannery and Leather Shop

Later that afternoon, after browsing a couple of shoe shops close to the Medina I finally found some pink sandals that looked nice, were the right size and were comfortable. the shop keeper said they were 250 MD though I’d been told not to pay more than 100-150 MD so I said no I don’t want to pay that much. He assured me they were genuine leather from the Berbers and that was the normal price. Then he asked me what price did I want to pay for them. I replied, 100MD (I knew it was too low for him and was prepared to pay 150) he thought for a minute then said 150MD, so I agreed and gave him the money. We were both happy!

Afterwards, I walked around in the hope to find a resturant with a choice of meat and vegetable dishes. Whilst on my search, a man asked me what I was looking for and said he can show me a restaurant where his friend works not too far away down a side street. I accepted his kind offer to show me. We went upstairs and he introduced me to his friend who showed me to a table up on the terrace, then he left. After a short conversation with the waiter he gave me a couple of suggestions I might like to try then left me to browse the menu. First I took some photos of the Terrace and the view as the sun was setting, then I made my choice and ordered.

While I was waiting for my food I sipped on a cocktail and noticed a large group of people arrive for a celebration meal together and I was asked to move to a different table. I obliged, though my view wasn’t as good but I didn’t mind as I had already taken my photos. I enjoyed my meal and had a wander around the Medina taking photos and videos before returning to my Riad.

 

My New Pink Leather Sandals

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Restaurant Terrace

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Restaurant El Kennaria

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Restaurant El Kennaria Terrace

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Restaurant El Kennaria

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Restaurant El Kennaria Terrace

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Restaurant El Kennaria Terrace

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Restaurant El Kennaria Terrace

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Day 5

The following day, after yet another delicious and filling breakfast (again consisting of only carbohydrate so I had put on quite a bit of weight now), I went on a walkabout specifically for photography and videos of the Medina and surrounding area. Also, I visited some hotels to do some business. In the evening, I tried chawarma and although it’s classed as ‘fast food’ and similar to the Turkish ‘durum’ I was very surprised with it’s wonderful flavour which surpassed the Durum. I then headed back to the Medina to enjoy the entertainment and for night photography and videos.

The atmosphere at night is amazing and you could say it’s ‘magical.’ There’s an aray of lamps all lit up around the whole area, some for sale and some just for show and the sound of different styles of music all around the square. Many shops all selling the same goods; lamps, ceramics, clothes, traditional outfits, iron ornaments, wooden ornament and more. You will also notice the African’s (mostly from the Serengeti) walking around hoping to sell their flamboyantly coloured ‘T’ shirts, some will walk alongside you telling a story from the designs of their artwork and ask you to take notice of the design.

On one occasion I said ‘no thank you’ to one man and told him I didn’t want to buy any T shirts but he still insisted I stop and listen to him because, I mıght just change my mind once I learn about the design. So I listened to him but because of his accent and limited English I couldn’t really understand what he said. He tried to speak French with me but alas I told him I have limited French knowledge. He was happy that I stopped to listen anyway.

There were many ‘Henna’ tattooists walking about trying to drum up customers by enticing them with a small ‘free’ tattoo as a ‘gift,’ but it wasn’t something I had wanted to try so I politely said ‘no thank you.’ I had to quickly move my hand away as she was about to grab it. And I had heard that some of the tattooists were quite insistant to some people when refusing a ‘free gift.’ One woman who accepted to have the small ‘free gift’ design on her hand told me herself (while she was trying to scrub it off) that the woman held her wrist so tight she couldn’t pull it away and the tattooist made the henna design all over her hand and fingers, even after the woman repeatedly said she didn’t want it! It did look lovely I might add. But, best not to accept the free gift I’d say and beware of the Henna Tattooists if you don’t want one.

If you’re going to take photos and videos of the groups/bands playing music or even just watch them, you should keep some small change in your pocket or purse as they’ll be round to collect their rightly earned tips.

You’ll also need to watch out for the horse and carriages trotting their way around the square with tourists on board. They’re actually quite fast so you need to keep your wits about you, and not only for the horse and carriage but for the motorbikes too whizzing around with their ‘take away’ orders and errands. There’s never a dull moment in the Medina!

Magical Marrakech Medina

Magical Marrakech Medina

Magical Marrakech Medina

Horse and Cart in Marrakech Medina

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Bright Lights of a Hotel & Restaurant Argana in the Medina

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Take a ride in a Horse & Cart around the Medina

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You'll also see a few Tuk Tuk's about in the Medina

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During the daytime the Medina has few tourists. You'll more often find them in the restaurants and cafés

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Lunch of omelette with meat & cheese & a very frothy coffee at a café at the Medina

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A typical street leading to the Medina in Marrakech

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Day 7. Essaouira

You’ll find Essaouira 173 kilometers north of Agadir. It is one of Morocco’s loveliest seaside towns, and its preserved 18th-century seaport fortifications have been stamped with a UNESCO World Heritage Site listing. Here, you can wander through the narrow streets, admiring the intricate carving details on the buildings and happily snap photos of its many quaint blue doors.

You come here for the atmosphere more than the tourist attractions, but the Museum of Sidi Mohamed ben Abdullah is an attraction that is definitely worth checking out. Located in the former residence of a pasha, the museum houses regional art, a fascinating ethnographic collection, and a history of the local musical traditions.

After 5 days of Marrakech I travelled to Essaouira by shared Taxi. It cost me 100MD plus 20MD for my suitcase. In the UK and Turkey, we only pay for ourselves when we travel, but in Morocco, whether you travel by taxi or bus, you will pay extra for luggage. There were 3 of us in the back and one front passenger plus the driver making 5 in total but the driver didn’t move. I asked the woman sitting next to me why we hadn’t left and she said because we’re waiting for one more passenger. I thought ‘what!’ as we we’re full already, but they like to squeeze one more in apparently! We waited a few more minutes and nobody came thankfully, so we all had to pay another 20MD as 100MD each was the price if there were 5 passengers plus driver. I couldn’t imagine sitting squashed between 3 others in the back of a taxi for even one hour!

Four hours later we arrived at Essaouira bus station, and as you can imagine I was much in need of the loo and a decent cup of coffee! I noticed a cafe across the road and made my way over. It felt a little chilly, but I’d been warned of that about Essaouira being windy and not as warm as Marrakech.

After my coffee I asked another customer which way the beach was as my ready booked Air Bnb was near the sea. They gave directions and I left. The distance they said was around 20 minutes walking with a suitcase in tow. However, due to the force of the wind, it was quite a battle to keep my dress from blowing up around my face and it was clear that there were many eyes peering dissaprovingly at me. So, I took a taxi to the sea front where I found another cafe to sit and use the wi-fi to make contact with my host.

I ate a meal, drank another coffee and waited for my host to arrive at the accommodation and after one hour it was time to go. My host, Abdou, was kind enough to carry my case up the flight of stairs to the first floor. My room was small with 2 single beds, one by the window and the other against the opposite wall with a small rug in between. The beds looked more suitable for children than adults so it was good that I’m not wide, though after eating all those carbs in Marrakech I felt quite fat and uncomfortable.

One thing I had forgot to check on before booking was the toilet. Which style of toilet do they have? Ooops! (Always check which kind of toilet they have before booking if your needs are for a sitting toilet). They had the hole in the floor style toilet. Not good for me as I have arthritis in my knees and it’s very painfull having to squat! I had no choice but to make do. After all it was only 3 days I had booked there.

While I was hanging a few of my clothes in the wardrobe, Abdou made me a ‘Welcome’ tea. We sat and talked about the countries we’d visited while drinking Moroccan Mint Tea and eating cookies and cake and he told me a little about the town. After a while he had to go as he was teaching a cooking lesson to a group of tourists a favourite Moroccan dish. He told me later that he gave regular cooking classes as it was another way to make money doing something that he loved. Of course, making money from doing something you love doing is the best work, instead of trading your time for money on a job you dislike.

Day 8

The following morning I went out for breakfast as Abdou’s choice was the same as in Marrakech. Carbs! Carbs! And more carbs! I found a lovely little cafe close to the sea front with a menu on a board outside in the street. The staff were friendly and the place looked clean and there was a good choice on the menu. I chose mushroom omelet with café au lait. The menu was written in French and most of it I understood luckily since I learnt French at school, be it many years ago mind.

After breakfast I took a stroll along the seafront and this time I was dressed more appropriately. Like most people I have to wear a sun hat in the summer, though the wind was giving me a hard time trying to keep it on! Even with a pin to keep it in I had to keep my hand on it, while my long hair flapped around my face. Nevertheless, I enjoyed the walk taking in everything from left to right. It was still quite early for Moroccans to be sunbathing on the beach, though there were a few families dotted about.

I walked up to the Medina taking photos along the way and once I’d reached the gates and gone through my eyes lit up at the array of small shops full of colourful clothes, bags and shoes. A wonderful aroma filled the air from the many spice stalls too.

There were shops with beautifully carved ornaments, some brightly coloured with paint and some were full of gorgeous Traditional Moroccan lamps. There were carpet shops galore! And many small shops in the side streets, this way and that and they all had their uniqueness about them.

Hiden away down some side alley ways were some wonderful Riads and Hostels. I went in and looked around some that I wanted to shoot photos of and also talk with the manager about my Travel Business. In fact, while I was in Essaouira I took the opportunity to visit many hotels during my 10 days for business discussions.

 

Breakfast Menu in Essaouira

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A Breakfast of Omelet and Coffee With a Sea View

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View From The Café

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View From The Cafe

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Essaouira Sea Front

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The Beautiful Vast Golden Sandy Beach Of Essaouira

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Essaouira Beach

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Essaouira Promenade

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Plaj'da Essaouira

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Wow! What A View! Luxury Sunbeds For Extra Comfort While You Sunbathe (for a fee)

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Comfy Sunbeds For Extra Comfort While You Sunbathe (for a fee)

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Me Of Course! Always With Blue Floppy Sun Hat & Sun Glasses

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Posing With Blue Floppy Sun Hat & Sun Glasses

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Posing With Blue Floppy Sun Hat & Sun Glasses

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Short Movie Clip of Essaouira Beach

Chalet De La Plage

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Chalet De La Plage

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Chalet De La Plage

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The Entrance To The Medina

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Entrance to The Medina

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Entrance to The Medina

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Entrance To The Medina

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Entrance To The Medina

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Inside The Medina

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Inside The Medina

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Inside The Medina

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Inside The Medina

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Inside The Medina

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Inside The Medina

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Inside The Medina

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During my stay in this gorgeous but rather chilly fishing town, I stayed with 2 very friendly Couchsurfing Hosts, used 1 Air BnB for 2 nights and a fabulous Riad Hotel in the Ramparts area of the Medina for 2 nights that I booked using my members igo4less bookings platform which is connected to my Travel Business as I can find very good discounts and I collect travel credit points too, to use at a later date. My Air Bnb host worked full-time and also taught Traditional Moroccan cooking to tourist so he was unable to show me around. However, my couchsurfing hosts were most willing and able to guide me to the best places for photos, food and entertainment, in fact they both insisted on showing me round.

Some of the times I walked along the promenade it was far too windy and sand blew into my face and hair. By the end of the walk my hair was a mass of knotts! It was also not possible to take good photos with so much wind and sand blowing around, so I took shots when the wind wasn’t so crazy. You’ll notice that there are many friendly young people all eager to greet you where ever you are with a friendly ‘Bonjour…..Ca va’? They also seem to love doing their fitness exercises on the beach or play volley ball.

When looking out to sea you’ll notice an Island, infact there’s 2. Mogadaor Islands which also consists of a few tiny islets are uninhabited and are a protected sanctuary for Eleonora’s falcons. Unfortunately, you’ll need official permission if you’re thinking to go there. You’ll also notice that the vast golden sandy beach has an area on the left side with high sand dunes, camels, quads, horses, surfers and kite surfers. Locals and holiday surfers can be found here all year practically as, although N/E winter winds can make it feel very cold it doesn’t seem to deter the lovers of the surf.

Essaouira is often refered to as a ‘Sleepy Little Fishing Village.’

For the best water sports, especially surfing and kite surfing, Essaouira has an expansive sandy beach and is located next to the harbor where the water is shallow enough for swimming. Take a deep sea fishing trip where you’ll find a plentiful supply of sea perch, bonitos, mullet, chad and sea bream, along with larger fish like tuna, swordfish, marlin, grouper and barracudas.

A former Portuguese fishing port, Essaouira is also the place to eat fresh fish. The fish restaurants and mediteranean cuisine are plentiful and Essaouira has a relaxed vibe although it was frequented in the past by rock stars such as Jimi Hendrix and Mick Jagger and stood as the location for Orson Welles’ famous film of Shakespeare’s Othello.

You’ll always hear the sound of music coming from the street players in the Medina and other artist performing such as acrobatics and jugglers. Apart from this you can enjoy it’s charm of unspoilt nature. And if you have traveled to Essaouira after visiting other Moroccan cities, one of the first things you might notice in the medina is dreadlocks—several locals and shopkeepers with dreadlocks. The town’s amiable medina, well-kept beach and quiet serenity make Essaouira an attractive place to get away.

The medina, a UNESCO World Heritage site, has a uniquely relaxed ambiance. Unlike Turkey and Egypt, rather than calling passers-by into their shops, merchants tend to quietly observe the crowd or mingle with locals, leaving tourists to browse through handmade Berber baskets, colorful fabrics and artisan handicrafts relatively pressure-free. Even negotiating for goods feels low-key, but it’s all part and parcel of  buying in such places. Moroccan bargaining customs still apply, so don’t be afraid to use it! I certainly do!

Go in the morning to see fishermen at work, inhale the wafting scent of sardines and survey the large swooping seagulls hoping to nab their share of the morning’s catch. The port quietens later in the day, offering picturesque rows of blue fishing boats bouncing on the waves with swarms of gulls overhead and the odd friendly cat or two winding themselves between your legs.

Essaouira’s main attraction for Moroccan and international tourists is the beach. One reason which appeals to the eye is the lack of litter and the second reason is the abundance of evening lighting and adorable sunsets along the approximately two kilometers of coastline that attract the most activity.

Very few café’s and restaurants operate along the beach, leaving plenty of open space to lounge, play or wander. However, if you get a little peckish for a bite of something, you’ll always spot someone selling snacks out of a tray-like, plastic wrap-covered box is never very far away.

As I mentioned before, wind whirls through the entire town, even the wide alleyways of the walled medina, which gives Essaouira its nickname of Morocco’s windy city and is obviously why it makes it a popular place to kitesurf and windsurf. Some local riads offer lessons for both and you’ll notice a small business along the promenade which displays information on equipment hire, lessons and prices. I found that even in the evenings of July, a jacket and scarf was needed as the wind was quite often so cold around my neck.

By night, the promenade along the beach comes to life. And while there’s still plenty of traditional Moroccan dress, you’ll likely see more western-style clothes and fewer hijabs than in many other parts of the country. You can find lively bars hosting live bands in many places from the Medina to the far side of town.

Now here’s something I most definitely will come back to experience as I’ve heard so much about! In late June, Essaouira hosts the Gnaoua Festival of World Music. This four-day “Moroccan Woodstock” features gnaoua music (the Gnawa are an ethnic group descended from the country’s neighbor to the south, Mauritania) and includes reggae, jazz and other genres. As many as 450,000 music lovers flood the small city to attend. The event is a source of pride among locals, as evidenced by framed posters from past years in venues throughout town. Sounds amazing, wouldn’t you agree?

Tout, Tout de Suite

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Colourful Clothes & Gifts

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A Typical Street Store In The Medina

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Typical Street Stores & Café

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Atlantic Hostel. A great place to stay, cool staff, comfortable communal area with views of the town.

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Atlantic Hostel. A great place to stay, cool staff, comfortable communal area with views of the town.

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Atlantic Hostel Terrace

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Atlantic Hostel Communal Area on the Terrace

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Seating Area on the Terrace of Atlantic Hostel

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Top Terrace at Atlantic Hostel

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It's Quite A Steep Climb To The Terrace

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You will see many archways in the Medina

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You'll find many interesting small shops in the side streets

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Mainly Wooden Items Hand Made

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Gardens outside the Medina

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Beautiful Purple flowers cover the garden outside the Medina

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A Colourful Archway To The Entrance Of The Medina

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A Colourful Archway To The Entrance Of The Medina With A Beautiful Purple Carpet of Flowers

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A Colourful Archway To The Entrance Of The Medina With A Beautiful Purple Carpet of Flowers

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An Adorable Sight With The Purfumed Smell From The Breeze

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A Glorious Sunset From The Beach Of Essaouira

A Short Movie Clip Of Essaouira

Another Short Movie Clip Of Essaouira

Essaouira Beach

View Of Mogador Islands From Essaouira Beach

A Typical Summers Day On Essaouira Beach

Essaouira Fishing Port

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A Fisherman Taking Pride In His Boat

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Fishing Boats

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Blue Fishing Boats Are The Norm Here

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The Blue Fishing Boats of Essaouira

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Beach Flags

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Sunset

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Sunset

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Sunset

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Glorious Sunset

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I recall one especially cold and windy evening around 12 th of July, my couchsurf host Adil, took me to see a live band with bellydancer at a Hotel/Night Club, (where ‘Bouncers’ stood boldly at the gate), along the seafront. I forget the name of it. Once inside, we waited at the bar in the hope to purchase a drink, though as they were busy it took around 20 minutes. So, we bought long drinks so as to make them last as we didn’t want to be spending the evening squashed at the bar with no view. We found an area that was reserved but the people hadn’t arrived yet, so I sat and took video’s and photos while I could. When the group came to claim their table I moved to a spot where I could get a closer look from a different angle.

The Band members were all fabulously dressed wearing Traditional clothing and interestingly, I had heard this style of music at the Medina. The crowd looked on and some even looked mesmerised by the rhythm and others started dancing in a weird kind of way. Nevertheless, everyone was enjoying the performance and once the Bellydancer arrived, suddenly there was even less chance of a good view so, I did the best I could under the circumstances of the enthralled gathering.

Afterwards we headed back to the Medina in the hope to find some live music in one of the many bars. There were a couple of bars with live music still going on but soon to finish as it was getting late. If you’re a fan of ‘late night munchies’ after the bars close, there’s many places where you’ll find a quick snack or a larger meal…..just follow the aroma and you’ll be sure to come across something tasty.

An Evening of Traditional Moroccan Gnawa Music In Essaouira

An Evening of Traditional Moroccan Gnawa Music In Essaouira

Traditional Moroccan Gnawa Music & Belly Dancing at La Petite Algue Bar

Traditional Moroccan Gnawa Music & Belly Dancing at La Petite Algue Bar

Essaouira Beach At Night

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Essaouira Beach At Sunset

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Essaouira Beach At Sunset

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Essaouira Beach At Sunset

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Seaside Cafe

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Seaside Cafe

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The Medina Walls At Night

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Le Medina Hotel

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Le Medina Hotel

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Le Medina Hotel

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Le Medina Hotel

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Le Medina Hotel

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Inside La Medina Hotel at La Scala Tea Room

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Inside La Medina Hotel at La Scala Tea Room

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Inside La Medina Hotel at La Scala Tea Room

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Hotel Miramar

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The Skala De La Ville & The Ramparts In The Old Town Of Essaouira

The old town was protected by imposing 18th-century ramparts that were once used to protect the port from pirates. Today, these ramparts are the icon of Essaouira. They were made worldwide famous by the series Game of Thrones as the place where Daenerys meets the Unsullied Army in season 3. Besides that, there are many other interesting reason to visit the ramparts.

The seawalls are an excellent location to take a stroll at any time and admire the wonderful ocean views and feel the sea breeze on your face.
At the Skala de la Ville, the ramparts can be accessed for free. After walking beside them in the Medina, you will make your way up a pedestrian ramp to access the top of the ramparts and the old canons facing the ocean, as if they’re waiting for some action! This, of course, is an excellent photo opportunity and definitely a nice spot to maybe bring a book and wait for sunset.

Essaouira offers interesting and lively streets filled with local vendors of argan oil, delicate woodwork crafts and scrumptious street food. This is a place you come to unwind, stroll along sand coloured ramparts and chill on a terrace ‘slurping’ hot frothy mint tea while watching life go by.

Once known as Mogador (the “small rampart”) during the Portuguese establishment in the 15th century, Essaouira is now a UNESCO World Heritage fortified seaport.

A Short Movie Of The Skala De La Ville & The Ramparts In Essaouira

A Short Movie Of The Skala De La Ville & The Ramparts In Essaouira

La Skala De La Ville

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Leather Goods Shop At La Skala De La Ville Shopping Area

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Assortment Of Souvenirs At La Skala De La Ville Shopping Area

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La Skala De La Ville Hand Made Craft Shopping Area

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La Skala De La Ville Hand Made Craft Shopping Area

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La Skala De La Ville Hand Made Craft Shopping Area

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La Skala De La Ville Hand Made Craft Shopping Area

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La Skala De La Ville Hand Made Craft Shopping Area

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La Skala De La Ville Hand Made Craft Shopping Area

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La Skala De La Ville Hand Made Craft Shopping Area

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La Skala De La Ville Hand Made Craft Shopping Area

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Restaurant La Licorne

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Restaurant La Licorne - Tuna Salad

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View From The Ramparts

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View From The Ramparts

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The Ramparts

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The Ramparts

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The Ramparts

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The Ramparts

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Hand Painted Artwork For Sale

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The Ramparts

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The Ramparts

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Wonderful Views From The Ramparts

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Wonderful Views From The Ramparts. A Great Place For A Photo Shoot!

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A Great Place For A Photo Shoot!

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A Great Place For A Photo Shoot!

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A Great Place For A Photo Shoot And Watch The Sunset

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Once known as Mogador (the “small rampart”) during the Portuguese establishment in the 15th century, Essaouira is now a UNESCO World Heritage fortified seaport.

The ‘Old Town’ is protected by imposing 18th-century ramparts that once were used to protect the port from pirates. Today, these ramparts are the icon of Essaouira. They were made worldwide famous by the series Game of Thrones as the place where Daenerys meets the Unsullied Army in season 3. But of course, there are many other reason to visit the ramparts. The seawalls are an excellent location to take a stroll at any time and admire the wonderful ocean views.

At the Skala de la Ville, the ramparts can be accessed for free. After walking beside them in the medina, you will make your way up a pedestrian ramp to access the top of the ramparts and the old canons facing the ocean. This is an excellent photo opportunity and definitely a nice spot to bring a book and wait for sunset.

Essaouira offers interesting and lively streets filled with local vendors of argan oil, delicate woodwork crafts and scrummy street food. This is a place you come to unwind, stroll along sand coloured ramparts and chill on a terrace ‘slurping’ hot frothy mint tea while watching life go by.

See the above photos.

 

COUCHSURFING

If you’ve never heard of ‘Couchsurfing’ it’s not new, but many people have yet to discover the advantages and benefits of this wonderful community. You don’t have to be an active ‘surfer’ or ‘host’ but instead, you can learn what’s going on in the area you are traveling to or are already in. You can also connect with others in the area where you are (even your home town) or will be and make a ‘freinds’ list too.

There’s also a ‘hang out’ area on the ‘app’ where locals and travelers in particular areas are looking for people to hang out with to maybe meet for a chat over a coffee or beer, discovering the Bazar together, shopping centre or an afternoon swim on the beach, or even make a group for an evening out at the local night club.

So whether you’d like to ‘host’ and ‘surf’ or just connect with travelers, there are advantages and benefits for everyone. Maybe you can show them around the best places to see in your own town, invite them to your home for your ‘home made’ favourite dish, that is if you like cooking of course, teach them somethings about the history and culture of your country, or hang out with them at your favourite bar or cafe.

There’s also a few more things besides those already mentioned, however, if you’re considering to try Couchsurfing as a solo traveler, a couple or small group (groups might find it difficult to find one host with more than 2 sleeping areas so you might need to find one or two more hosts in that area), it’s advisable to search the ‘verified’ Hosts or ones that have hosted a few times and received positive references. Better to be safe than sorry, especially if you’re a solo female traveler like me.

Generally, the people actively participating on couchsurfing are genuinely very nice people who just like to learn new things from foreigners and are eager to give their knowledge of; the history and culture of their country; a particular talent and help foreigners feel welcome and enjoy their stay in their country.

Whilst in Morocco I used my Couchsurfing App to see what was going on locally and to find my hosts. I used the ‘hang out’ one time to meet someone for a coffee and chat but he didn’t know much English and spoke mostly French with me and as I know very little French it was a short meeting.  I also spent quite a bit of time visiting the bigger 4 and 5 start hotels in the hope of doing business with them.

Here’s the couchsurfing link for those interested to look into joining this community.  http://couchsurfing.com/   It used to be free to join but since the COVID-19 situation they made changes and now there is a small cost to use it but I definitely recommend it and agree it’s well worth paying for.

My 2nd Host, Rafa, invited me for breakfast the day before I was due to stay with him, so that I could see where his place was situated and if it was suitable for my needs. So, I accepted his kind offer and arrived at a ‘lived in’ wee bit untidy home (no problem) with big coloured tribal masks hand carved from wood set up on the walls and a small dog (I don’t mind dogs so long as they don’t jump up, lick my face or have smelly breath, lol). Breakfast took a while but it was the most delicious cheesy omelette with olives on the top and mint tea and was certainly much better than the café on the seafront.

We chatted over breakfast about travel, food (as he enjoyed cooking) and other subjects including music, and as I could see a couple of guitars and djembi drums in the living room I guessed he played in a band. Sure enough, he invited me to come and watch him and his friends play at ‘Friends’ cafe on the beach later that day but unfortunately I didn’t get there in time as I was enjoying browsing the Medina again, finding new places and shops. He also played in a few of the bars in and around the Medina in the evenings.

I stayed with Rafa for 3 nights and found him a very laid back kind of guy, very easy going, so I felt very relaxed and enjoyed his company, cooking and listening to his stories of his travels. I gave him a good ‘Host’ reference for his Couchsurfing account declaring I would definitely recommend him to stay with. He also gave me a positive referenc as a great ‘surfer’ and that he would be happy to host me again. After I left his place I stayed at the magnificent Salut Maroc Riad Hotel for 3 nights (which I booked from my own Travel Savings booking platform).

Salut Maroc was an amazing experience as the whole place was so vibrant and colourful and the Top Terrace was such a cool place to hang out in the evenings with an amazing view of the Medina and sea. The staff were very cheerful and attentive and made you feel important to them, caring about your personal choices where food and drink were concerned and gave each customer/group a lot of attention. I would certainly recommend to stay there for a fun time and well worth the money.

Breakfast at Rafa's Place

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Breakfast at Rafa's Place

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View From The Window At Rafa's Place

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View From Rafa's Window

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Lobby Area of Salut Maroc Riad Hotel

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Colourful Stairway To The Upper Floors

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Lobby Area

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Inside Salut Maroc Riad

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Vibrant Colours Fill The Entire Riad

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View From The Top Floor

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Colourful Ornaments On Display

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Me Posing On The Chaise Longue

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Me Posing On The Chaise Longue

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Me Posing On The Chaise Longue

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Me Posing On The Chaise Longue

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I Loved The Colourful Designs On The Furniture

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A Delightful View!

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I Love All The Blue Hue's

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I Highly Recommend A Stay Here And I'll Certainly Be Back

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Salut Maroc Top Terrace

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Salut Maroc Top Terrace Cafe/Bar

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A Wonderful View From Salut Maroc Top Terrace Bar

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A Wonderful View From Salut Maroc Top Terrace Bar

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A Wonderful View From Salut Maroc Top Terrace Bar

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A Wonderful View From Salut Maroc Top Terrace Bar

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The Ground View From 3rd Floor

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A Short Movie Clip Of Salut Maroc Riad in Essaouira

Day 16. Returned To Marrakech For Business

During my 9 wonderful days in Essaouira I was still in contact with some of the hotels that I had visited for business discussions whilst in Marrakech, including the Riad Dar Thalge where I stayed. They were eager to discuss my Travel Business further face to face so, although I hadn’t planned to return to Marrakech it seemed important enough to return seeing as I was still in Morocco.

For my journey back to Marrakech I took a bus from Essaouira bus station. It wasn’t as comfortable or as good quality like the CTM bus I took from Agadir but, it was transport nevertheless. Because of that it should have been cheaper but as I am a foreigner and alone I wasn’t aware of their tricks to get extra money, which resulted in the same price as a ticket with a CTM quality bus.

As soon as I arrived at Essaouira bus station with my rugged, well traveled suitcase a man asked me where I wanted to go. I told him I’m traveling to Marrakech so he beckoned me to follow him. I followed him to a bus and another man took my case. I asked how much was the ticket and was told 70MD plus 20MD for my suitcase. Then they both wanted 20MD each for their assistance which resulted in a total of 130MD (the same price as a CTM from Agadir to Marrakech). I noticed that none of the busses displayed the destination so you had no choice but to ask someone as there was no office or desk to buy a ticket or make inquiries. So be aware of this and maybe if you can take a local with you when taking a bus you may actually be able to get a ‘cheap ticket.’

The bus was full of families with children so it wasn’t a peaceful journey. Everyone around me was noisy and smelly and we were 2 hours into the journey before one particularly smell family near me disembarked. Lol. At least I had a window seat so I could enjoy the view along the way. Finally after 4 hours 20 minutes we arrived at the bus station in Marrakech.

Once off the bus and had collected my luggage I heard some locals traveling on the same bus speaking English, so I asked them where I could get a taxi to where I was going. They were taking a taxi to somewhere so they kindly invited me to walk with them to the taxi area. Once there, the guy who was helping me told the taxi driver the place I wanted to get to. He even discussed the price with the driver and told me not to pay any more than 15MD. I thanked the friendly local and got in the taxi with 2 other people. Seems normal to share taxis most of the time in Morocco and I wasn’t particularly bothered by that so long as I got to my destination within a reasonable time frame.

When the driver stopped and told me ‘ok lady,’ I got out of the taxi and immediately recognised that I was at the Medina. I was close to where I was before. Perfect! I was very happy. No need to stress, as I knew the way through the streets and narrow alleyways, and it was still day-light. Though before I did anything else I needed to find somewhere to eat in the Medina. I was ravenous!

I found a kind of large cafe/restaurant and as all the outside seating was taken I sat inside.  A cheerful waiter helped me decide which dish to choose and I didn’t regret it one bit! His suggestion of the Berber Tagine was excellent and I had been looking for this kind of meal anyway so I enjoyed it tremendously!

Once I reached Dar Thalge Riad I rang the bell. Yassine was expecting me and greeted me with ‘Welcome back,’ and a big smile. He showed me to my room I would use for the following 3 nights and said he will bring me some mint tea and fruit. I was so ready to relax for a while and later caught up on a bit of work and confirmed with the Hotels of our appointment meeting times for the following 2 days.

Marrakech

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Traditional Berber Tagine

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Moroccan Shawarma

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My Room on my return to Riad Dar Thalge

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Inside my 2nd room at Dar Thalge Riad

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A cute little court yard outside my door

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A comfy double bed in a bedroom downstairs away from the main area.

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Relaxing in my room before heading out to the Medina for the evening

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A cosy corner to relax with a beer and catch up on some work

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A Traditional Moroccan Tea Pot

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Full Breakfast on the terrace again!!

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Full Breakfast on the terrace again with pancakes, orange juice, mint tea & coffee!! Phew, I'm stuffed!! :)))

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Locals going about their day in Marrakech Medina

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A woman has her hair braided in Marrakech Medina

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A typical daily scene in Marrakech Medina

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Plenty of Horse & Carts for touring the medina and local area

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Marrakech Medina Night Market

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Colourful painted ceramics and other hand made crafts in the Medina

Ceramics and other hand crafted items

Shopkeepers eagerly waiting for customers

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All things bright & beautiful!

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Having fun trying on a Traditional Costume

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Funny Fishing Game in the Medina

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Weird Games Are Being Played In Marrakech Medina

Night Life & Live Music In Marrakech Medina

The Narrow Streets Of Marrakech

Friendly Chat On The Streets Of Marrakech

The following day, after another heavy, yet delicious full breakfast, I headed off to my first business meeting of the day. After giving a presentation to the hotel manager we sat and discussed further over coffee. The manager informed me he would discuss everything with the hotel owner and to call him the following evening. So, off to the next one I went. After 3 more meetings I was feeling rather tired and as it was past lunch time I made my way to look for a ‘good’ cafe for a light meal and coffee of course!

The rest of the afternoon I spent back at the Riad as I needed to do some work and with the heat outside I was feeling a tad sleepy. In the evening, again I enjoyed walking around the Medina and always saw something new even though I been there 5 evenings already. I ate something small at a fast-food cafe on the way to the Medina. Yassine had advised me to try the Moroccan Shawarma so this was the place I tried it. It was similar to the Turkish Durum, but boy was it delicious! It was so much more tasty than Durum in my opinion and because of that I ate it again the following evening!

The following day was pretty much the same apart from feeling a little dizzy in the afternoon from the heat and so after my 2 morning hotel meetings Yassine kindly ordered me some fish from outside for my lunch at the Riad. He was so kind and even arranged my bus ticket for me for that evening on a night journey. I rested a while before going out for Shawarma and my last look round the Medina.

When it was time to go I thanked Yassine for his kindness and gave him a gift that I had in my case specifically to give someone who I felt should have it. As he took it he gave a huge smile and his eyes welled up. He reached out and hugged me then he took my case and told me to follow him as my taxi was on it’s way to take me to the bus station for my journey to Fes and then from there traveling on to Chefchaouen.

CTM Bus Ticket From Marrakech To Fes

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Day 19

On arrival in Chefchouen I called the Hotel receptionist and asked him to speak with my Taxi driver so as to give him directions on how to get there as the Taxi Driver didn’t seem to know where Hotel Vallparadis was. I was dropped off somewhere near to my accommodation as it was in an area where it wasn’t suitable for cars (narrow, windy streets with steps, pedestrians and locals selling their arts and crafts).

Abdel, the receptionist came to the spot where my taxi dropped me and carried my rugged suitcase all the way (5 mins) to the hotel. Most of the narow streets are cobbled so pulling an old suitcase that already has wobbly wheels wasn’t a good idea, lol. Once inside I checked-in and was shown round and was invited to make myself aware of the coffee/tea making facilities in the kitchen so I could help myself when I wanted. I was shown to my small single room which, instead of a number was called ‘Dina’ room.

After a nice warm shower I was ready for a late afternoon nap so I could feel refreshed for an evening in the Medina square for diner and entertainment. However, I wasn’t able to sleep as there was a lot of noise coming from the street below as my room was overlooking it. I could hear tourists and locals passing in both directions talking, shouting, birds and continuous footsteps. Anyway, I rested for a while and later I went out for a pleasant, lively evening and dinner in the Medina.

Stairway to the reception area of Hotel Vallparadis

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View From My Room 'Dina'

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Enjoying a Tagine and entertainment on my fist night in Chefchouen

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A Lively Evening In The Medina

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Many Stalls, Restaurants & Musicians In The Medina

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Chefchaouen Medina

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Even at night the streets look charming with lights shining upon the blue buildings

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Arts and crafts along a stairway

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A Charming Artistic Doorway

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Small Street Shops Selling Mostly Hand Made Crafts

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During the daytime and evening you can see small shops selling hand-made art and crafts, lamps, rugs and carpets

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A Traditional Restaurant Inside The Medina

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Most Of The Time You Have To Be Patient & Quick With Your Shots When Waiting For An Empty Street.

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A Brightly Lit Stairway In The Blue City Of Chefchaouen

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So Peaceful & Beautiful To Walk Here Late At Night

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Hotel Sandra

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Moroccan's Really Care About The Look Of Their Front Door Here! Beautiful!

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Hotel Sandra

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A Quick Selfie! Lol

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Day 20

I was up bright and early seeing as I wasn’t able to sleep well from the outside noise of passers by, dogs barking and voices from the people in the next room.  It wasn’t a problem as I wanted to slip out early so I could take photos of the streets while empty of tourists. It’s the best time, especially if you adore the sunrise as much as the sunset.

I was surprised that there weren’t many stall holders preparing their stalls at 8am, though it was obvious not many tourists were out and about until after 10am either! I wasn’t even able to get an early breakfast and had to wait until 9.30am for the first café to open. It was worth the wait as the wonderful view from my position meant that I could take photos of the colourful café below with a garden, waterfall and river while they prepared my breakfast.

Garden Cafe with Waterfall

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Garden Cafe with Waterfall

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Garden Cafe View From A Distance

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View Of The Surrounding Area

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View Of The Surrounding Area

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Although Not Visible There Is A White Spanish Church On The Top Of The Hill

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The white-washed church was built in the 1920s by the Spanish. It failed to attract local worshippers, and eventually fell into disrepair. Restoration works were later carried out.

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Inside the Café

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Just Look At That View!

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A Cosy Setting to Relax & Enjoy The View

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Seating Available Outside Though View Not So Good

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A Short Video Clip of Chefchaouen

Walking Along the Empty Blue Streets of Chefchaouen in Early Morning

The Birds Early Morning Song In Empty Blue Streets of Chefchaouen.

View From The Café

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View From The Café

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I spent the morning browsing the goods on display in the streets, then ventured out on a longer walk around the larger part of the town. I found a great place to eat lunch along the main street called Twins Restaurant. It had a kind of Jazzy Style to its look and the staff were very friendly. Afterwards I continued on my walk about and set out to look for some suitable hotels that maybe I could do business with. I went into Madrid Hotel and had a pleasant conversation with the manager, Issam and we exchanged business cards. He was very interested in the information I gave him and was eager to inform the Hotel owner.

Next I took a walk through the narrow cobbled streets, and like most were aligned with stray cats, whilst looking for more Riads/Hotels to discuss business. The time went so quickly while talking with the hotel managers and drinking mint tea it was almost evening before I realised what the time was. Time to head back to my room to shower and get ready for the evening and dinner in the Medina.

Another Short Movie Clip of Chefchaouen

Evening Entertainment In The Medina

Arts And Crafts Displayed Along The Wall

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Many Stalls With Souvenirs Of Hats, Clothes & All Kinds

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Many Carpet Stalls To See Everywhere In Chefchaouen

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Rugs & Fabrics Galore!

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Take a Stroll Along The Cobbled Streets

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Beautiful Bright Fabrics on Offer

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Home Made Warm Fresh Bread

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Empty Streets Ready For The Tourists

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The Entrance To The Medina

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Printed Towels

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Pretty Door Way for a Photo Shoot

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Breakfast in the Medina

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Omelet with cheese & olives, coffee & fresh orange juice.

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Freshly Painted Clean & Bright Homes

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A great view of the town from the hill top

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The White Spanish Church On The Top Of The Hill. As A Non-Working Mosque, All Visitors Can Take A Peek Inside.

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The Beauty of Chefchaouen

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Hotel Riad Antek

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Inside Hotel Riad Antek

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Inside Hotel Riad Antek

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Inside Hotel Riad Antek

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Inside Hotel Riad Antek

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Day 21

Again I was up bright and early since the birds were singing their beautiful morning songs and people walking past my window from around 5.30am. This time I took a different route for my early morning photos and videos then made my way to the Medina for breakfast. Afterwards, I took a stroll around the stalls surrounding the Medina and one friendly gentleman asked me if I was enjoying my time in Chefchaouen. “Of course I am” I replied. “Who wouldn’t, it’s beautiful and been on my list of places to see for many years.” He told me his name was Mohammed and said he was happy to hear I was enjoying my time. Mohammed offered to show me around, to which I thanked him but declined, and told him I’d been there for 2 days and seen much of Chefchaouen already and as I hadn’t had much sleep due to early morning noise I wanted to rest for a couple of hours before climbing the hill to the Spanish Church for photos and sunset.

We chatted for a short while about Essaouira as Mohammed told me he often visits there due to him having many wonderful memories of times in Essaouira with his family. I listened attentively to his stories as they were very interesting but I couldn’t stand around under the hot mid-day sun any longer, so we exchanged our instagram info and I bid him goodbye.

It was around 6pm when I started making my way up to the gleaming White Spanish Church. I really enjoyed the slow walk up as there was much to see on the way, from sheep and goats, cute cats, large coloured boulders and stones, some people selling fruit and drinks at the side of the lane, cyclists, other tourists making their way up to the top for sunset and photos. I noticed on arrival at the Church, that there was a woman selling fresh orange juice, but that was all she was selling and there were no other stalls or people selling snacks or drinks (and no toilet). So make sure you bring your own drinks and snacks if you’re thinking to be up there for a few hours. You may be able to go inside for a peek depending on the season.

There were many people there already seated in best positions on the wall, so the next best place was sitting or standing on the grass in front. The view from that point was magnificent! Though there was a lot of haziness from the bright gleaming sunshine which showed up in most of my photos, so I was a wee bit disappointed in them. As the sun went down I took a bundle of photos hoping that at least a few would be awesome. It was a spectacular event nonetheless, and I would recommend to anyone as it’s worth the climb up and it’s not too steep.

So after that, with my ‘tummy’ telling me it was time for dinner once again and my last evening in The Beautiful Blue City I made my way back down to the Medina. Each evening I chose a different restaurant and each were equally exquisite. After dinner I took a slow walk and last glances along the route back to my hotel making sure I hadn’t missed anything.

Panoramic Sunset Shoot From The Spanish Church On Top Of The Hill

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Sunset Photo Shoot From The Spanish Church On Top Of The Hill

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Sunset Photo Shoot From The Spanish Church On Top Of The Hill

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Sunset Photo Shoot From The Spanish Church On Top Of The Hill

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Amazing View & Photo Shoot From The Spanish Church On Top Of The Hill

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Garden Café With Waterfall

Evening Inside Chefchaouen Medina

Peaceful, Early Morning Painting The Blue City

Day 22.

Sadly, today is my last day of my time in Chefchaouen. Though I have a wonderful array of videos and photos for memories. My taxi driver came to the Hotel to carry my suitcase seeing as he knows very well that one cannot push or pull any in these cobbled streets. On arrival at the bus station I bought my bus ticket to Fes, dropped my case on the trolley and went off to search for some breakfast. I had 30 mins to spare before departure.

Across the road from the station was a restaurant looking more like an Old English Pub with oak wood beams (the name of which I forgot), just opening up for the start of breakfast. I asked if I could order something to eat and within 10 minutes it was brought to me outside and laid on the round wooden wobbly table in front of me. It was plenty and flavoursome, especially the fresh squeezed orange juice and coffee.

My journey to Fes by bus was around 4 hours, fairly comfortable and uneventful. I had arranged to stay with a Moroccan family in Fes for one night before flying on to Barcelona, which I arranged from the Couchsurfing website. Yassine was my Host and he had given me instructions on arrival to take a Taxi and let him speak with the taxi driver to give directions to his neighbourhood.

Yassine came to greet me at my drop-off point and we made our way to his home. He had many cats and cute little kittens that ran around winding in out my legs almost tripping me up, but once in the house I was safe. Before long, Yassine brought a welcome drink of Mint Tea and Cookies to the table in the living room where we sat and chatted for a while until his sister, Mum And Dad came home. His sister spoke English so she was able to join in the conversation with me and Yassine, though their parents didn’t speak English at all but enjoyed having foreigners staying from time to time.

I tucked into this delicious breakfast before departing on my journey to Fes

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Welcome Drink of Mint Tea & Cookies

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Welcome Drink of Mint Tea & Cookies

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One of Yassine's many cat's

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Two of Yassine's cute kittens

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Dinner time! Delicious Moroccan food.

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After dinner, Yassine showed me how to play a popular Moroccan Board Game called Parcheesi (also known as Parchis and Patchya). It seemed quite difficult to learn but after some time I got the jist of it so we played a game. Yassine won of course, as he’s an expert (lol). Then we played again and to Yassine’s surprise I won the game! He was shocked and said that no-one has won before after a brief teaching and only played one game so I guess he must be the best teacher wouldn’t you say? 😉

Actually, that’s one of the things Yassine does in his spare time. As well as teaching groups of Tourists how to cook traditional Moroccan dishes he also teaches this Board Game and is a great way to earn a little extra on the side from his main job. He really was a great host as he’s such a friendly guy, who loves meeting foreigners and showing them around his town sharing his knowledge and culture. Even his parents are very welcoming and enjoy having foreigners for a short stay which made me feel quite comfortable in their home. It was a shame I was only staying one night as I would have loved to have stayed another night or two.

Unfortunately, since I was departing late morning the following day, there wasn’t time for Yassine to show me around Fes Medina and the town, but I’m sure I’ll be going back to visit again some day. After sharing stories of our travels and other related experiences it was time to retire for the night, and although I was the ‘couchsurfer,’ Yassine offered to sleep on the couch and kindly gave me his room. After all, it was only one night and I slept very comfortably.

Parcheesi, a Popular Moroccan Board Game (also known as Parchis or Patchya)

Adventures In Magical Morocco

Parcheesi, a Popular Moroccan Board Game (also known as Parchis or Patchya)

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An area in Yassine's living room leading to the kitchen, bathroom and other rooms.

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A second area in Yassine's living room.

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Yassine's living room.

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DAY 23

After breakfast I took videos of the kittens playing in the living room before they were put outside to play as they don’t stay indoors all the time. Usually, it’s traditional when you stay with a Host or Host family you bring a gift for them but, as I hadn’t planned on Couchsurfing before I traveled to Morocco I hadn’t brought anything with me to give as a gift from Turkey or the UK. The only thing I had with me was some Turkish Tea Bags so I gave them the few I had and hoped they liked them. They smiled and said maybe.

Something I wasn’t aware of until I had arrived at Yassine’s home was that there might be a problem getting to the airport due to the Taxi’s not being allowed to go all the distance (there was some kind of dispute going on at that time) so I had to find a way to get there on time. Thankfully, another Couchsurfer, Omar, messaged me to ask how I was getting on and I asked him if he knew how I could get to the airport. He knew of the Taxi problem and offered to pick me up from Yassine’s and take me all the way to the airport without any payment.

Omar arrived in good time and had another woman in the car who he was also kindly helping to get somewhere. I said goodbye to Yassine and thanked him for a wonderful time and for his kind hospitality and scrambled into the front seat. Omar dropped the woman at her stop and we talked along the way to the airport. He was an interesting guy too and it was clear that he enjoyed helping foreigners in his country even if he wasn’t hosting them. Moroccan people really are so friendly and kind.

Omar dropped me off and requested to keep in touch in case I returned or maybe he might visit Turkey one day. If he were to visit Turkey I could be his Host or at least help him wherever he needed if he should come.

I thoroughly enjoyed my 23 days adventure in Morocco and will most certainly return again one day. My next stop….. Barcelona here I come!

Breakfast Time!

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Breakfast Time! (You can see the Turkish tea bags I gave them on the table)

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Fes Airport

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Fes Airport

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